BTMS-25

BTMS-25 is an emulsifying wax made up of 25 percent behentrimonium methosulfate combined with 75 percent cetearyl alcohol, both typically derived from natural rapeseed oil. As a raw material, it is supplied as white to off white waxy pellets or beads, with a faint, characteristic scent and a melting point that generally requires heating to around 70 to 80 degrees celsius to fully incorporate into a formulation.

What makes BTMS-25 distinctive is its dual function. Behentrimonium methosulfate is a cationic conditioning agent, meaning it carries a positive charge that allows it to bind to the naturally negatively charged surface of hair, providing genuine conditioning and detangling benefits. Cetearyl alcohol, the other main component, acts as a co-emulsifier and thickener, helping to stabilise the finished emulsion and contribute body to the formulation.

Together, these two ingredients allow BTMS-25 to function as both an emulsifier and a conditioning agent in one raw material, simplifying the ingredient list needed to formulate an effective hair conditioner. This combined functionality has made it one of the most widely used ingredients in small batch and professional haircare formulation alike.

BTMS-25 is a popular choice for formulators because it removes the need to source separate emulsifying and conditioning ingredients for a hair conditioner recipe. Its dual function as both an emulsifier and a cationic conditioning agent simplifies the formulation process, particularly useful for anyone building their first haircare product.

Its conditioning performance is a major draw. Because behentrimonium methosulfate binds to the hair shaft, finished conditioners tend to offer improved wet combing, noticeable detangling and added body, which are the results customers expect from a genuinely effective conditioner rather than a simple moisturising rinse.

BTMS-25 is also valued for its mildness, making it suitable for leave in conditioners as well as rinse off formats, where a gentler, non irritating profile is important since the product may remain on the hair and scalp for longer periods.

Its ability to emulsify high levels of silicones and work well alongside other conditioning agents gives formulators flexibility to build more advanced haircare formulations, while its compatibility with skincare bases also allows it to be used in lotions and creams where a soft, powdery skin feel is desired.

BTMS-25 is added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to a minimum of around 80 degrees celsius to fully melt and incorporate into the recipe. It is typically combined with oils, butters or other emollients in this heated oil phase before being blended with a separately heated water phase to form the finished emulsion.

Recommended usage rates generally range from 1 to 10 percent, depending on the level of conditioning and thickness required in the final product. For rinse off conditioners, a mid range percentage is common, while leave in conditioners often use a lower percentage given the product remains on the hair without rinsing.

BTMS-25 works well alongside other conditioning agents and can emulsify significant levels of silicones, making it a flexible base for more advanced haircare formulations. It can also be used as a co-emulsifier alongside other emulsifying waxes to add conditioning benefits to a wider range of formulations, including lotions and creams.

As with any new ingredient, run a small patch test before wider use. Always refer to the technical documentation provided for full handling, working temperature and storage guidance.

One of the main benefits of BTMS-25 is its dual functionality, combining emulsifying and conditioning properties in a single ingredient. This simplifies the formulation process for hair conditioners, reducing the number of raw materials needed to achieve a stable, effective finished product.

Its conditioning performance is a standout feature, offering genuine detangling and improved wet combing thanks to its cationic behentrimonium methosulfate content. This gives finished conditioners noticeable body and softness, helping brands deliver a product that performs as well as it feels.

BTMS-25's mild, gentle profile makes it suitable for leave in conditioners as well as rinse off formats, broadening the range of haircare products it can be used across. Its compatibility with high levels of silicones also gives formulators room to build more advanced, silky finished textures where needed.

Beyond haircare, BTMS-25 brings a soft, powdery skin feel to lotions and creams, extending its usefulness into skincare formulation as well. Combined with its plant derived origin and relatively straightforward incorporation process, it remains a dependable, versatile ingredient for formulators building out a haircare or skincare range.

• Cetearyl Alcohol, a co-emulsifying wax that pairs well to boost thickness in conditioner formulations
• Jojoba Oil, Organic, Golden, Cold Pressed, a lightweight oil that adds shine when blended into leave in conditioners
• Panthenol, a soothing active that complements BTMS-25 for added moisture retention in hair care
• Shea Butter, a rich butter that enhances the conditioning feel of cream based hair masks
• Vitamin E (Tocopherol), a natural antioxidant that supports the shelf life of BTMS-25 based formulations