Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) Powder

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, commonly abbreviated to SCI, is an anionic surfactant used in cosmetic cleansing formulations. It belongs to the isethionate family of surfactants and is widely used in syndet bars, shampoos, body cleansers and facial cleansing products.

A surfactant is an ingredient that helps water interact with oils, dirt and other substances on the surface of the skin or hair. This allows them to be lifted from the surface and rinsed away. Surfactants also play an important role in creating the foam and lather associated with cleansing products.

SCI is amphiphilic, meaning its molecular structure contains parts that interact with water and parts that interact with oils. This structure allows SCI molecules to organise themselves around oily materials during cleansing, helping them disperse in water so they can be removed during rinsing.

The “cocoyl” part of the name refers to the fatty acid portion of the molecule, which comes from fatty acids in the coconut range. The “isethionate” portion relates to the isethionate structure that forms the hydrophilic part of the surfactant.

SCI has become particularly associated with solid syndet cleansing products because of its foaming properties and its suitability for products where a concentrated surfactant system is required. It has been used in syndet bar formulations for decades and is recognised for producing a rich, creamy foam.

SCI is a popular choice for cosmetic formulators who want to create solid cleansing products with a rich, creamy lather. Its combination of cleansing performance, foam quality and suitability for concentrated formulations makes it particularly useful when developing shampoo bars and syndet body bars.

One of the main reasons formulators choose SCI is its foam profile. It can produce dense foam with relatively small bubbles, creating the creamy lather that many consumers associate with premium cleansing products. This makes SCI particularly useful for shampoo bars where the sensory experience of the lather is an important part of the finished product.

SCI is also a useful ingredient for sulfate-free formulations. It provides an anionic cleansing function while giving formulators the flexibility to build a surfactant system around other mild anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

Its established use in syndet bars makes SCI especially relevant to small cosmetic brands developing solid shampoo, body cleansing and facial cleansing products. It can help a formulator create a concentrated cleansing bar without relying on traditional soap as the primary cleansing system.

For brand founders making products themselves, SCI Powder is also practical for small-batch formulation. It can be incorporated into anhydrous bar formulations alongside ingredients such as fatty alcohols, butters, oils, clays and other surfactants to create a finished cleansing bar with the desired hardness, foam and sensory characteristics.

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Powder is particularly well suited to anhydrous cleansing products such as shampoo bars, syndet bars and body bars. It can also be incorporated into other cleansing formulations, although its limited water solubility can make liquid formulations more technically demanding. Research into SCI solubilisation has specifically identified its limited solubility in water as an important consideration when formulating aqueous systems.

When working with SCI Powder, avoid creating unnecessary dust and use suitable personal protective equipment. Eye protection, gloves and effective respiratory protection are recommended when handling fine powders. Work in a well ventilated environment and follow the information provided in the relevant Safety Data Sheet and Technical Data Sheet.

For anhydrous bars, SCI is generally combined with the other solid and oil-phase ingredients before the mixture is processed into the required bar format. The exact processing temperature and method will depend on the complete formulation.

In our own formulation testing, we have found SCI Powder better suited to anhydrous products than simple liquid formulations. Although SCI is amphiphilic, its behaviour in water is strongly influenced by temperature and the wider surfactant system. When we tested SCI in a liquid shampoo formulation, we observed a thick, creamy, milky product that was prone to separation. This makes formulation development and stability testing particularly important when using SCI in aqueous products.

Suggested inclusion rates:

Shampoo bars: 0% to 60%

Body bars: 0% to 25%

Liquid shampoo: 0% to 15%

Facial cleansers: 0% to 10%

Bath bombs: 0% to 20%

These are suggested starting ranges rather than universal formulation limits. The appropriate concentration depends on the complete formulation, the other surfactants present, the desired cleansing strength and the physical properties of the finished product. Always carry out appropriate formulation, stability and safety testing before commercial production.

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate offers several useful properties for cosmetic formulators developing cleansing products.

Its most recognisable benefit is its foam performance. SCI can produce a dense, creamy lather with small foam bubbles, giving shampoo bars, body bars and other cleansing products a rich sensory profile. High foaming performance is one of the reasons SCI has become a longstanding ingredient in syndet bar formulations.

SCI is also valued for its suitability for sulfate-free cleansing products. It provides an anionic surfactant function, allowing formulators to develop cleansing systems without relying on sulfate surfactants.

Another important benefit is its established use in mild cleansing formulations. Research has found SCI to have favourable skin compatibility compared with some stronger surfactants, and studies have investigated its behaviour in relation to the skin barrier and micelle size. The performance of the finished cosmetic still depends on the complete formula, concentration, pH, contact time and other ingredients used.

SCI is particularly useful for solid cleansing products. Its popularity in shampoo bars and syndet bars makes it a strong starting point for brands developing plastic-free or waterless cleansing formats.

For cosmetic businesses, SCI also offers formulation flexibility. It can be combined with other surfactants and functional ingredients to adjust foam, cleansing strength, texture and the final sensory experience.

• Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
• Lauryl Glucoside
• Decyl Glucoside
• Cationic Guar Gum
• Panthenol
• Glycerin
• Cetearyl Alcohol
• Kaolin Clay